After a sticky hot night with 'Hurricane Merle' (the rotating fan) at full whack, we enjoyed a day at base, with thunder rattling around surrounding valleys. All that energy in the atmosphere had to go somewhere. Eventually after a downpour, equilibrium was restored and we enjoyed a relatively cooler day and another spectacular sunset. Next day we set off for one of the most beaux villages de France. Obviously this involved a détour as usual, but we got to see extra sunflowers en route so why not? Aubeterre sur Dronne is a très agréable fortified village, nestled above a loop in the river. We climbed up to Place Ludovic Trarieux and explored the narrow streets, views and assorted artisanale offerings (including nice pottery). We settled in for a long 'menu du jour' lunch under the shade, involving salade, truite bio, mousse au chocolat and a small carafe of fermented grape. While we listened to everybody else's conversations, we were entertained by the delivery man who blocked two streets and then offloaded half pigs into the butchers, clobbering the doorframe and the window on every pass. Suitably rempli, we set off for the subterranean église de Saint Jean. This amazing, cool space was carved out of solid limestone in the 12th Century; complete with crypt, baptismal pool, cemetry, font and galleries. The Charente is on the pilgrim routes, so having somewhere to put your relics was really important. Aubeterre is also blessed with a river beach, so exhausted from our discoveries, we spent the afternoon not-canoeing on the river, just watching everything dériver lentement passé. Another journée bien remplie!
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