Bega

We hurried to Bega, home to cheese since 1899. The Bega Cheese Heritage Centre was all one could hope for at Australian Cheese Central. We marvelled at the old equipment, did some tasting and browsed the cafe, but we were still too close to an enormous breakfast to fit anymore in. Hence our visit to Bega proper and the delights therein. Seconds later, we were on our way back to the cafe for lunch. Entertainment was by way of a film loop all about making tasty matured dairy products. As Monty Python once said, "Blessed are the cheesemakers". 

Replete, we took the very off-road track up the mountain through Biamanga NP to Mumbulla Creek Falls. Here the river has carved out natural water slides and swim pools. This beautiful place is sacred to the Yuin people of the South Coast. On the way back, a Superb Lyrebird (that's it's actual name) crossed the track in front of our mini dust storm; nearly a metre of bird in a hurry. The lyrebird is famous for mimicry but with the noise of tyres on dirt road, we couldn't tell if he was doing impressions at the time.

Boogie On Down

Thursday: With the morning dawning stiller and more tranquil than normal we hastened to the beach. After selecting a preferred parking place among the collection of no other vehicles, we walked the final 20m to set up on an empty beach, with glassy waves. A pleasant local appeared and nearly spoilt things by mentioning the cricket, before offering to take our picture, finding out a little of our life history and our travel intentions. I may have mentioned England Ladies' victory yesterday, securing their Ashes series as he was just going out of earshot. We did some serious boogie boarding and as we tired, the reliable seabreeze onshore wind turned up and everything flattened to chop.

Friday: Time to move on again. Down The Princes Highway into the area known as the Eurobodalla Coast. The number of creeks with actual water in them increased, as did the number of steel framed bridges spanning the various rivers and inlets. After coffee at Batemans Bay, we took a walk in the botanic gardens at Mogo. Then we rumbled on to Bodalla for lunch in a converted dairy and a wander around the quaint shops and a nice gallery with paintings by Stuart Whitelaw. At Narooma Beach we admired the craggy coastline beyond. As we climbed away from the sea, the countryside became rolling hills, with the 'mountains' of The Great Dividing Range closer. A detour to Tilba yielded more even quainter olde worlde businesses, nestled into the Alpinesque foothills. The final push to Brogo got us to our very comfortable converted tack shed accommodation under Mumbulla Mountain by late afternoon.

Callala

Keen to try out those famous white sands, we made for Callala Bay, at the Northern side of Jarvis Bay. We pulled up just as the aqua aerobics was starting, chest deep in the clear blue water. As we were a good decade or two younger than the 20 or so locals who were vigorously pumping their ancient but nicely toned limbs, we opted for a promenade along the pristine beach fringed by 'bush'. We then decided to go to 'Callala Beach', not to be confused with the beach at Callala BAY. So we spent a pleasant time looking across the same but different vista of white sand and azure sea just next door, around the aptly named Callala Point. What with the sun, the sea and the incessant NorEaster, we were soon completely Callala'd.

Currarong

With Monday being another public holiday, we stayed local, walking at Crookhaven Heads. A storm out at sea failed to make landfall so we stayed dry and the day turned sunny and windy (again). Further up the Crookhaven river is Orient Point where we had a wander looking over the mangrove lined inlets. In the evening we snapped the sunset over Lake Wollumboola.

Next day we took the route South to Currarong village, parking by a beautiful little bay, with shade and impressive rock overhangs. The walking trails took us first to Mermaid Bay, approached via a very narrow path cut into the cliff and like many routes on the Perpendicular Peninsula, terminating in a vertical drop to the sea below! Next stop was Lobster Bay, our own private beach. Then on to Honeysuckle Point, another tiny beach and then Wreck Bay and the remains of the SS Merimbula (1928) which floundered on the rocks but everyone made it ok. Our plans to spend the rest of the day on the white sands of Jervis Bay were also scuppered when the gate guard informed us (Beecroft Peninsula is a navy range) they are shut until Friday. No worries, we plonked down on the sands overlooking Crookhaven Bight for the afternoon.

Australia Day

We walked around Penguin Head on the rocks. There were amazing canonball sized boulders embedded in the cliffs, that appeared to be bubbled up balls of magma, insofar as they were hollow inside? On Warrain Beach, the surf lifesavers club was gearing up for a fun day. In the afternoon, we joined the crowds on Culburra Beach for a body board session. After a 'traditional' Aussie bbq, we settled down to watch the men's final of the Australian Open.

Going South

We took the harbour tunnel through Sydney and then the coast road to Stanwell Park, where the road swings out over the ocean at the Sea Cliff Bridge. We lunched at Shellharbour and then stopped at Kiama where the wind was howling at 60kph, to visit the famous blowhole, where waves shoot up vertically. We reached Culburra and enjoyed a walk to the sea and sunset on the veranda before bed.

Kingcumba Mountain Reserve

The Kingcumber Mountain Reserve provided glimpses of Brisbane Water amid lovely native forest. The red gums were beautiful, contrasting with the low palms and deep green grasses. The sandstone escarpments were curiously wind carved and under our feet, high above sea level, was ancient sand from some long-ago beach. 

Staying Local

After breakfast overlooking the beach at Terrigal, we had a day watching the waves go by. 

Forest Kingfisher and White-faced Heron

We took in the views at Crackneck Lookout and then had a wander along Bateau Bay Beach, where the waves were beating into the sculptured sandstone. We spied interesting birdlife thanks to the zoom lens.

Heron fishing the seaside pools

 Kingfisher surveying the shoreline

Three Beach Day

We walked Wamberal beach in the morning, in the afternoon we sat on Avoca beach:

Later we had a BBQ at Shelley beach with the whole Hancock clan. Dolphins were romping in the mushy surf.

Echidna

We visited the wonderful Ken Duncan Gallery. Ken is perhaps the best Aussie photographer of the panoramic shot. We topped up our art quota at the gallery in Gosford and then strolled the Japanese Memorial Gardens. In the afternoon we headed up to the Rumbalara Reserve, following the "Flannel Flower Walk" with views either side of the ridge out over Brisbane Water. We were absolutely amazed to come across an echidna tucking into an ant feast. A rare creature to see up close, what a privilege.

Umina and Petonga

We joined Kel and Denise at Umina Beach, meeting up with Brittany, Jess, Ava and Bo (who was teaching surf lessons nearby on a very flat sea). When we were sufficiently salty, we traveled over the hills South to Petonga, where we had a drink overlooking the busy stretch of water out of the Hawkesbury River and across to Palm Beach on the Northern suburbs. 

Seal Rocks

We drove the dirt road through Myall Lake NP to Seal Rocks, a small beach town where, we guess, nothing much happens. We walked up to the lighthouse at Sugarloaf Point (completed in 1875 but with plenty of shipwrecks occurring afterwards too, so nautically of limited value although very picturesque). We looked down over a small bay (perhaps a mile long only) with tiny waves and sheltered from the onshore stiff breeze. So we traipsed back to the car, collected the boards and claimed our patch of sand. Very nice too. We didn't see any of the Grey Nurse Sharks that live in this part of the maritime protected area or any seals, because they were hunted to near extinction so only pop back when the coast, as they say, is clear.

Booti Booti

We walked the bush trail up the headland North from Pacific Palms through the Booti Booti NP. The name means "plentiful honey". As palms gave way to other native plants, we enjoyed ocean views. A large monitor lizard made off from us, climbing a nearby tree. We dropped down for a paddle in the sea at Seven Mile Beach and then crossed to lakeside for a visit to The Green Cathedral, an outdoor church set in a palm forest, looking over Wallis Lake. The church was created in 1940 and incorporates stone altar and gum log seating. We grabbed a coffee nearby and then walked the trail beside the lake, stopping for lunch to watch windsurfers playing. A long green snake slipped away along the path and we took extra care not to stand on any of his friends from then on. To chill off, we had a dip at Boomerang Beach.

Forster

We spent the morning on Elizabeth Beach at Pacific Palms, a small sandy spot between two headlands. We lunched at Forster and walked out past all the motorboats and cruisers to the Hawkes Head entrance to the ocean. In the turquoise waters we watched dolphins before walking back across the beach to a lookout. Back at base the parrots were noisily arguing over which one we should feed first.

Next day, a strong breeze cooled the coast while most of the rest of the country sweltered in extreme heat. We had a body board session and collected pumice stones. I paddled the lake after lunch, seeing jellyfish as big as footballs and scaring the black swans from their slumbers on a sandbank. We walked through the palms to Shelley Beach in the evening before watching the sunset at Wallis Lake.

Bluey's

We intended Sunday to be a day of rest, so lounged about in the morning reading. However, unused to sitting still, we took a stroll by the lake and soon decided to walk the shoreline right up to the sand bars nearer the sea. Succumbing to the cake and coffee offer at the Frothy Coffee Cafe, we looked out over the 'busy' end of the lake from an old boathouse. Later back at base, we managed to entice the wild parrots close enough to feed from our hands and in the evening we popped up to Blueys Beach for sundown by the sea. Next morning we went back for a swim and run there. An afternoon kayak was called off due to mosquitos and in the evening we drove down the dirt road, past the Bungwahl palms,through the dunes, over the boardwalk and walked along Cellito Beach up to the sandbar which separates the lake from the ocean.

Sea Eagle

We were invited on an early morning kayak trip by our hosts Geoff and Terese. We put in on one side of the Wangi peninsula and paddled round to the other, taking two and a half hours. We passed NP land and were observed by a sea eagle sitting in a tree. We set off North, stopping for lunch at the top of the lake before the drive to The Great Lakes and our next home at Smiths Lake. This place is amazing, with a view over the water, while being raised up and therefore effectively in the tree tops. Colourful parrots arrived to check us out.

Catherine Hill Bay

A day at the beach: Hazards listed as sharks... We didn't see any! 

Around the South of Lake Macquarie and then back up the seaward side, brought us to Catherine Hill Bay. The whole area is a big coal mining centre and an old pier poked out to sea where boats would load up, in the days before huge container ships. The hinterland was blackened by recent bush fires, with new leaves already on the eucalyptuses and saplings enjoying the newly opened canopy among the sooty trunks. We body boarded and surfed, with the onshore breeze keeping us cool all day. 

Wangi Wangi

We drove North to Lake Macquarie and the little peninsula of Wangi Wangi. We had lunch watching dinghies racing and then went up to Watagan National Park. As the roads became rough forest trails we began to see kangaroos eating the lush grass in this temperate rainforest. We walked in the cool shade, past large ferns and palms, while birds called in the canopy above us. We reached Gap Creek Falls and then pushed on further, through the giant bluegums. Claire had to repel a leech, intent on making a snack of her foot. 

Cronulla

Taking the morning train to Cronulla, we watched the surf lifesavers practice and lounged by the waves before a coffee and then back to say goodbye to Liz and then North back to The Central Coast. 

Botany Bay

We took the bus to Little Bay and walked South, with the waves crashing on our left, as we followed the coastal path down to Cape Banks. Here we watched body boarders surfing a nasty looking rock reef and had lunch above a wreck which was being pounded beneath us. We turned West as we entered Botany Bay, passing Henry Head and then up to LaPerouse. We had a swim at Congwong Bay beach and thought of Captain Cook and The Endeavour anchoring here when Australia was only  occupied by aboriginal tribes. On the way back, we passed the SCG where England were handing the 5th test and the ashes back to a rampant Aussie cricket test team. We drove past in an attitude of silent respect.

Parramatta River

Having secured the centre front seat on the ferry to Parramatta, we did the 3 hour return trip in one go. Stopping at every ferry station on the way, we got to see the full expanse of the river, with expensive waterfront properties and pleasure craft of every description. The top part of the navigable river approaches Parramatta city through mangroves which makes the juxtaposition of the CBD next to apparent wilderness, all the more interesting. We wandered The Rocks area and then up onto the bridge to get some great pictures of the iconic skyline below. After relaxing in the Botanic Gardens, we caught the train back.