NYE Sydney

Famous around the world as the first really big celebration of any new year, we decided to try to get into the fairly chilled out viewing area overlooking the bridge and opera house, known as Mrs Macquarie's Chair. The queues snaked around The Domain for 2 hours in hot sun, until we finally made it as one of the 17000 people limit. We passed a relatively pleasant afternoon and evening waiting for the action to start; the flying foxes wheeled above us when the aerobatic display took a break. We saw the 9pm fireworks from waterside and then found a view of the bridge for the midnight main event. It was truly spectacular, with a waterfall of light falling from the harbour bridge and the City as the backdrop for the display. A fleet of boats dressed with lights paraded too. We crushed into trains to get back... A memorable day. It's 2014.

Kim's Birthday

We drove up to the Mangrove Creek Dam which holds 90% of this area's water. The trees were full of cicadas who were at full volume as we looked out over the eucalyptus woods. On the way back, a large reptile crossed the road in front of us and climbed a tree to get away from having it's photo taken. A bit further on we stopped to watch Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoos cavorting in some pines.

We enjoyed birthday cake with Kim in the afternoon. 

Ocean Views

After hand feeding the birds at breakfast we went for a sightseeing drive. South down "The Scenic Road" are various lookouts, giving nice views of the coastline; the picture below is looking South towards the city. The shark spotting helicopter passed by overhead.

 We had coffee at Kilcare (above). In the evening we had supper with Kel, Denise, Jess and Ava.

Watersports

Arriving at Andy's at 7am, we set off for The Entrance North Beach to catch the morning swell. A deceptively hard paddle out provided perfect beach break conditions (Thom and Andy shown above). A number of fins broke the surface outback... and a pod of dolphins swam past. In the evening we had another paddle on the kayak and watched the local SUPers as we ate fish and chips by the sea. A perfect day. 

Boxing Day

After a rainy start Boxing Day turned up trumps and we headed off to the beach in Peter's 1972 BRG MGB.

We parked at The Haven under a Norfolk Pine and settled in for sunbaking and a swim. Pelicans floated about and flew in and out of the sheltered cove behind the rock breakwater which protects the South end of Terrigal Beach from the swell. Later we climbed to the lookout above the site of the HMAS Adelaide wreck. We had supper outside, cheered on by the frogs, crickets, cicadas and kookaburras. The fruit bats are silent as they pass overhead on the way to getting their 5-a-day/night. 

Christmas Down Under

You travel to the other side of the World to enjoy a sunny Christmas and it rains all day. Everyone here seems very content as "We need the rain" and not very sympathetic: "You'll be used to it" but disappointing not to go to the beach none-the-less. After a morning Christmas service at Holy Trinity Terrigal, we joined Andy, Kim, the boys and others, totalling 25 of the family for a fun day and great feast Aussie style. 

The Central Coast

The Sunday train service to Sydney is the only one each week that doesn't involve a bus, just a train... all the way. So, setting off at 7am, we gently trundled East, leaving the Riverina and passing through country towns until we reached Sydney 9 hours later. From Central, we jumped straight on a suburban service North, passing over and around the inlets of Brisbane Water, arriving at Gosford at about 5.30. Next morning I had an early morning run down to a misty Terrigal and along the sand next to The Pacific as the sun burnt through. On Christmas eve, after admiring the resident Rainbow Lorikeets on the veranda, I kayaked in the surf ahead of an evening carol service. Later we ate the Christmas cupcakes we bought afterwards while watching more carols from Melbourne. 

Busy Bees

Grape vines at sunset: Their drip irrigation must be checked to ensure every part of each row gets an even watering.

Beehives at the end of a hot day. Note the bees swarming outside the hive at the centre. The interior is too hot (for the safe rearing of the brood) so they remain around the entrance, but leave it clear. In the day, bees 'drink' or pick up water which they take back to the hive to provide evaporative air conditioning. Clever creatures. The bees are an essential part of growing almost any plant that does not self-pollinate; they are here to work the carrot crop pictured below, whose heavy seed heads are nearly ready to harvest. The bees may decide to fly off somewhere else and visit other crops or flowers as they wish. 

Roos

The best place to see wild kangaroos is on the golf course at dusk, where they hop over the fence and enjoy the greens on the greens. 

We pottered around on a golf buggy, passing mothers with joeys in their pouches, juveniles and large males. We also saw several hares. 'Major Mitchell' or Pink Cockatoos flew overhead. 

Apricots and Cicadas

With temperatures in the 40s all day, Claire walked the dog early and I watered the veggies. Then we picked 6 bins of apricots. The last time I stepped on that 'picking ladder' was 1982! 

Sitting neatly on top of an apricot was a cicada nymph exoskeleton. Emerging as an adult (winged) creature, it will have climbed the tree after spending between 1 to 17 years underground in it's nymph stage! Although it won't live for nearly as long as an adult, (a few days or weeks), it will make that deafening noise in the evening for which they are famous. A fuller explanation of all things cicada is here. 

Murrumbidgee

We set off for the river at Darlington Point for a sundowner, passing numerous stubble burning fires on the way. We wound through the gums to find a quiet river beach on a bend in the Murrumbidgee, a kingfisher flew from tree to tree. On the ground were a party of parrots, who dispersed on our arrival. We arranged ourselves like an African hunting party, overlooking a waterhole, and spread out the picnic. 

The impression was of intense peaceful quiet. However, the reality was a birdsounds treat: The carolling of Australian Magpies, the laughter and cackles of Kookaburras, the raucous screech of Corellas overhead and the quiet calls of the nearby parrots who hung about in the tree we were under and then gathered down by the river to drink. There are over 70 species of parrots living in Australia, so being precise is tricky, but we think 'our' birds were "Turquoise Parrots". On the way home a kangaroo hopped past us as we made our way back to the road through the River Gums; the full moon reflected on the river. In the 40kms home, the windscreen got so plastered by insects we could barely see out. Their collisions with the glass sounded like rain; and as a we passed creeks where the insects are bigger and fatter, the noise of their demise sounded more like hail! We passed Santa being pulled by kangaroos - probably just a Christmas model but with reduced windscreen visibility, you can't really tell.

Red Dirt

Given sufficient water, the soil here supports crops and gardens. However, the top layer of soil is seemingly always on the move, carried on the wind to coat everything in a fine red dust. As the temperatures climb into the top 30s, shady spots are welcome. Even the wildlife hides in the daytime. Click here for some dirt road video.

Local Markets

We met Knowle at the indoor market, who makes beautiful bowls from red mallee burls and river red gums (foreground). We felt sure we could find room in our cases for one. We resisted the offer of free kittens but did snap up some nasturtiums to fill in on the veggie garden. Back at base, Phil and I pulled up dead almond trees and Claire prepared a masterpiece for supper. We won't mention the cricket. 

Griffith

We could see columns of 'burn-off' smoke rising off the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area (MIA) from "The Hill' overlooking Griffith. Here the dry bush stops at a steep escarpment and down below the green of the town and the agricultural areas begins. After harvesting rice, the growers burn off the stubble so that they can 'disk' the remains quickly back in and plant a wheat crop (which will germinate with little more added water as the soil still has the reside from the rice irrigation). 

We have enjoyed some time with Mark, Liz, George, Alice, Arthur and Louise as well as trying to keep up with Phil and Eleanor. Last night we went to the cinema to watch "Backyard Ashes", a local film made in Wagga Wagga: We loved all the Pommie bashing and the Aussie slang. We even have time sometimes to just enjoy this wonderful place, far off the overseas tourist trail. Our lovely veranda, overlooking Eleanor's garden is pictured above. 

On The Farm

We began our project, which is making a series of raised beds for home-grown vegetables, made out of old railway sleepers, some of which we reclaimed from a collapsed bridge across one of the channel banks. It has been nice to stop travelling and to settle into a pattern of working in the fresh air; we have been sensible with the application of suncream, headwear and sunnies. The scorching weather has not yet arrived, making labouring much easier than it will be in 35 degrees. Meika the dog is keen to join in any rides on the 'mule' or in the 'ute' when not chasing bees. Claire is beginning to look like a proper Aussie farmer's wife (a paddock of almond trees is in the background) :

The veggie garden involves post-thumping using the tractor and utilising recycled vine posts and the like. 

The NSW Western Plains

We drove South East again down to Menindee, where there are a number of created lakes, holding water flowing down The Darling river. Water is 100% Australia's most precious resource and they take great care over maximising it, sharing it and stewarding it. We chatted to the State Water guys who maintain the inlets, outlets and weirs there. Most of the largest lake is being released for Adelaide currently (in a different state). The water arrives from rainfall in Queensland (yet another state). There were pelicans and other birds making a living in this unique and extraordinary landscape.

Then we continued East to Ivanhoe, more than 200km on dirt road - we passed two cars. On the way we saw more 'roos and a lot of emus.

We went on to Booligal where we stopped at a pub straight out of a Western: two drunk blokes on the veranda, a barking dog, a guy on a stool at the bar, a woman in a stetson and a barwoman who looked like she could handle anything. We drank up quick and carried on....  via more dirt road to Gunbar. Here we met cattle that the drovers move from the drought areas North, down "the long paddock' (the gap down the road between the side fences) to better grazing where the rain falls. The final run in to Griffith (after another 8 hour drive) was different again: The Riverina (Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area) brings paddocks of cotton, rice, walnuts, grapes, citrus, in stark contrast to the previous hundreds of kms of open plains. 

Into The Redder Centre

We headed out of Adelaide and picked up the Barrier Highway. Soon the sat nav said "After 350km turn right", indicating the relatively straightforward nature of navigating Australia's huge open country. We paused at Burra for tea and admired the town's open cast copper mine. After another 100km we turned east and reached Yunta for lunch in a duststorm. The outside temperature climbed above 40 degrees. Rolling into Broken Hill we left SA and reached the Western corner of NSW (although staying on SA time). We had a very delicious meal, the menu involved kangaroo, wallaby, beef, lamb, quail and crocodile ... all delicious at the Open Earth restaurant, built on the "line of lode" (silver seam), overlooking the city. 

To make things more exiting, there was a lightning storm! We started Wednesday at the info centre for breakfast, then visited Jack Absalom's gallery, meeting Jack himself, who is one of the famous 'brushmen of the bush'. We fitted in the railway museum before heading NW to historic Silverton, an outback mining town built on the silver and lead deposits, with a population of 3000 in 1885. Today Silverton has less than 40 residents. At the Mundi Mundi lookout we could really take in the vistas of this harsh landscape. 

The Umberumberka reservoir nearby is fed by flood run-off, maximising the 9" average annual rainfall here. We saw wedge-tailed eagles, corellas (white parrots), kangeroos and emus. The Silverton Hotel has an interesting interior featuring pictures of movies filmed here.... we stopped for a beer.

We fitted in a garden visit en route back to Broken Hill where we had time to view the World's largest painting on canvas by Peter Anderson. It's 100m long and took two years to complete.

In the evening we went to The Palace Hotel, a typical outback place with a very untypical interior: nearly every wall is painted in local scenes, including all the way up the stairs, the ceilings etc.. 

South Australia

We left Australia's economic powerhouse state (WA) and travelled over 2000km and 2.5 timezones East to the more gentile and old fashioned city of Adelaide. Our hotel is so central, you simply walk out the front door and you're there... With temperatures heading for 30 degrees, we donned sensible headgear and visited the state buildings, museums and art galleries. The city is surrounded by parkland and the centre has a real buzz, embellished somewhat by the not-too-gaudy Christmas decorations. With mining being an important element of SA's industry, we have a wealth of opal and other minerals to admire both in the shops and indeed as opalised prehistoric skeletons in the museum. The below picture is taken in the superb state art gallery.

We also enjoyed the botanic gardens and later met up with Phil and Eleanor for supper. 

North and South

Despite WA apparently having had it's second warmest spring ever recorded, early summer is proving cool and wet: Due to inclement weather we wandered Perth's shopping centre on Friday, before catching the train North to Warwick and the bus to Hilary's Boat Harbour. With strong onshore winds, we sheltered on the boardwalks and walked to a lookout before meeting Gary and Claire for red emperor fish supper at Bella's. The journey back into the city had lots of transit officers in attendance for the Friday night crowd and we then had to shelter at Barrack's Square from a downpour.

On Saturday we went to Fremantle, walked the markets, saw the fishing fleet, took in the Shipwrecks Museum and enjoyed this eclectic mix of Victorian, colonial and modern Australia. The Swan River colony was established here, ahead of the (now) capital city Perth. Then we went North again to Claremont, a very rich suburb where Lamborghini's fight for road space with Range Rovers. We met David for lunch and he gave us a tour of his school nearby, backing onto fantastic sailing waters.

Penguin Island

We took the train South to Rockingham and then the bus to catch a ferry a short distance offshore to Penguin Island. It was very windy, with strong sunlight bouncing off the waves. With all the native penguins asleep, as they go fishing at night, we did get to see some rescued Little Penguins, along with many other sea birds including pelicans.

Cultural

A day spent using the free buses, enjoying the botanic garden and the museum. Sitting on a hill above the city the gardens are beautiful, with a few standout specimens such as the boab trees that are bottle shaped as they stood water in their trunk. The museum covered everything affecting Western Australia from the dawn of The Earth to modern times. In the late afternoon we watched the sun sliding down over The Swan river, some Lorikeets were shouting to each other in the nearby palms. We had an evening wander after dark, admiring the Christmas lights.

Perth by night

Kings Park offers views of the city that are perhaps best enjoyed after dark.

Ambition Unbounded

Staying on reclaimed land, in the shape of a palm, extending 6km out to sea, with tower blocks, hotels and seaview villas in private, guarded estates on each 'frond' of the palm.... sort of sums up Dubai: It is a progressive multicultural cauldron of innovation and bold ambition. The sea 'surface' area of this man-made peninsula includes many individual inlets and one enormous crescent around the outside, which means the shoreline is absolutely huge compared to it's overall footprint. It solves the problem of no more shore by creating lots more. Dubai was a British protectorate until 1971, so everything is in English and Arabic. Only 11% of the population are native UAE. In 2 days time they find out if they'll be hosting World Expo in 2020 here. I can't think of a better place. As we pack to leave, we are so grateful to our lovely friends John and Amanda, for showing us their city during our brief touchdown in The Emirates.

Burj Khalifa

The Dubai Mall is the world's biggest shopping mall, so big you can spend the day there and still only see a bit of it. We visited the aquarium, several souks and marvelled at the 828m of the Burj Khalifa, dwarfing the surrounding skyscrapers. The only way to fit it into a picture was to take a panoramic shot sideways! After dark, we watched the illuminated dancing water fountain show and then got a taxi to The Madinat where we had a lovely Persian meal with John and Amanda. The wooden Abra boats passed by next to us on the waterways and the Burj Al Arab (7 star) was lit up behind.

Breakfast

On the balcony

Dubai

We arrived safely in The UAE and were whisked off to John and Amanda's apartment on The Jumeirah Palm, overlooking the sea and the city scape. We had Arabic lunch at The Qasr, then took a Abra water taxi to the spice souk. We walked along the creek beside the moored dhows then headed off for lovely ice creams and a journey back through the traffic admiring the city lights and distinctive skyline.

FT Family Time

Over a long weekend, we spent time with Mum, had a lovely meal out with almost the whole family. We attended the Remembrance Day parade and service in Taunton. My old scout troop marched past us too. Grandma FT was really happy.